Congratulations, its an… email.

Early friday morning March 19th the americans again assembled for a pre-planned excursion to the famous Las Fallas festival in Valencia. There was a breif scary moment when it looked like the bus was overcrowded and I wouldn’t get a seat, but eventually all worked out and Cindy and I secured the last pair of seats in the double decker bus. During the 5 hour bus ride south along the Spanish coast some tourist guides were passed around and we all read up on the humongous festival of fire we would be witnessing.
The Fallas are humongous and intricatly constructed sculptures/floats that are built by each neighborhood of Valencia in anticipation of the first day of Spring. They literally take a tremendous amount of talent, man power, money, and months to design and build. Some of them reach tens of meters high and hold some real artistic value. You really have to see the pictures to understand. And then… in one night of complete insanity and pirotechnical heaven they are set on fire and burned to the ground. I don’t really understand why, I think something to do with fire being a symbol of rebirth and the coming of the spring (etc etc), but I am really glad that it happens. The festival was freaking awesome.
As the bus pulled into the city of Paella we saw some effects of the all-to-recent Madrid bombings. The streets leading into Valencia were crawling with armed police officers (huge shotguns!) randomly searching incoming cars. We pulled into the bus stop near Puente de Real and deboarded, immediatly rushing our way through the city to find Placa de Ayuntament where a firecracker show was scheduled for 1pm. The square and the streets leading into it were jam packed with people trying to position themselves to see the show as well as to get a peak at the grand Falla de Valencia situated in the center. We found a space next to the fountain to cool off (the weather was a very nice 17degrees) and watched the extremely loud earsplitting show. The smoke from the firecrackers flooded the huge square and caused the sun to glow an eerie red. Finding the way out of the square was incredibly difficult as the millions of people, all trying to find some lunch, were bottenecked by the narrow streets. We eventually made it out and walked around for a few hours before we were able to find a place to sit down and eat. After lunch we walked the beautiful city and checked out all the Fallas. While walking around and seeing all the different beautiful sculptures I couldn’t believe they were all doomed to be burned that night. One of my favorites was of The Muses located in Placa Pilar and reaching above the surrounding buildings. Placa del Virgen was covered in assortments of flowers and had a huge statue of Mary that was adorned with a dress of flowers. Cindy and I gorged ourselves on Bunuelos and Churros throughout the day, until, unable to find a proper plate of Paella, we sat down and ate some Doner Kabobs (kind of like a greek Giro) and waited for 10pm to roll around and all the Fallas to begin burning.
Although it would have been great to see all the Fallas burn, it was impossible for two reasons. First, there were too many in too many different locations around the city. And two, the city was so crowded it was a task just to make it through any one given street. Unfortunatly for us, on top of these obstacles, we not only ended up picking the Fallas to watch that the people took the longest to set up and get burning but Cindy’s feet were literally bleeding from walking around all day. It turned out alright though as the Fallas we did see burned good, burned with gusto, burned and exploded and burned again with billowing fires reaching up to 50 feet in the air. There was always a little girl, called a Fallera, present at each burning who would cry for the Falla as it burned. It was so intense. We only stayed at each Falla for a few minutes because after that the heat and smoke was too intense to bear and besides, there were others to see. Running (and limping) through the streets we could smell the smoke, feel the ash raining on our heads, hear the fireworks being lit off in the streets, and see charred remains of already cremated works of art. Around 1am, after sticking around for half of my favorite The Muses to burn we made our way through the ever crowded streets, past Placa Ayuntament (where there were preparing to burn the grandaddy Falla), and back towards to bus at Puente de Real. If only you could have seen the insanity. It was, well… insane.
Come to think of it, I’m really quite amazed half of these Spanish cities are still standing. In between the random fireworks thrown in the streets during soccer matches and the festivals, like the crazy fire deamons running down through the streets in Barcelona and the Fallas burning in crowded squares just feet from city buildings in Valencia, its a miracle. Things like this would never, ever, ever happen in the United States where the cities are much more spread out and suitable for such occasions. Think about it. You’re barely allowed to have a sparkler lit in your backyard in California without a fire marshall present and here the Spaniards are running through their narrow old town European streets with flamming sticks and burning effigies. I’m going to miss all this excitement when I go home.
The busride home was uneventful and so goes for the rest of the following week. On tuesday night I was invited to my friend Peter’s piso in Sants for a small bar-b-que that turned out to be oh so good. We made shishkabobs the likes of which I have never seen. I stuffed myself full and then came back for more. I think I was stocking up for the exitement of the coming weekend where Cindy and I had planned I trip to the beautiful beach town of San Sebastian.
We left Thursday afternoon immediatly after my last class. We traveled by bus because it was the cheapest way. The ride took about 6 hours and after making stops in Zaragoza and Pamplona we arrived in San Sebastian around 10pm. We checked into our hotel which turned out to be only one block from the beach and got a good night’s rest. We awoke the next morning to find the good warm weather trend hadn’t yet caught on in San Sebastian and it wasn’t going to be our weekend to lay out on the beach. After donning our sweatshirts and long pants we made the rounds of the San Sebastian old town before we took a short hike up Mont Urgull. As we could see from the hill, the city hugs and encompasses a gorgeous bay that looks like it could come right out of a pirate movie. I don’t know how to describe it properly, but as I sat on the park bench overlooking the city all I could think was that this was one of the most beautiful places I had ever been in my life.
San Sebastian is located along the north coast in Pais Vasco, the Basque region, just a hop skip and a jump away from the French border. Pais Vasco, like Catalunya, has it own language, Euskadi (a languge that makes good use of k’s, t’s, x’s, and z’s) which the people are very proud of. In fact, most of the street signs which contain both Castellano and Euskadi have had the Castellano spray painted over by the local youth. Besides their language and ETA, the Basque people are also well known for their excellent food. Some say its the best in Spain, and although I havent been everywhere, yet, I would have to agree. I would add two more things to the list as well. While sampling the various assortment of tapas (called Pinchos here) around the local bars I noticed and believe the Basque people should also be recorgnized for their kindness (at least in relation to the Catalans). And, the old people wear really cool hats.
The mid day Friday was spent bar hoping like mad. I wanted to sample every different kind of tapa there was to have. After filling myself with the Basque delights Cindy and I strolled the beach, explored the Cathedral, and then took a tour through the famous Aquarium. Cindy loved the Aquarium and we spent a good portion of the day walking through the underwater tunnel, seeing the sharks and turtles, etc. When we exited the museum we saw that the sun had gone away and replaced itself with rain clouds and cold. We went back to the hotel and changed into warmer clothes before we went out again to a very nice restaurant down the street.
The next day we took a short bus ride out to Bilbao, the next major neighboring Basque town. Though not quite a beautiful as San Sebastian the city has recently become famous for its Gugenheim Museum. We spent the entire day inside the museum checking out all the modern art, but honestly the best part of the museum was the museum itself. The building itself is a work of art. It is amazing, both inside and out. Bright titanium scales meld and form into waves, sweeping the building up as if it were a fish jumping from the bordering river. Inside the stone and glass walls curve and guide you through each unique room. As the electronic guide said, the only straight surface in the entire building is the floor. Really, you have to see it. Unfortunatly we didn’t get to see the rest of the city before we had to catch the Tram to Bus to San Sebastian to bus to Barcelona to metro to home combo. We arrived in Barcelona at 8am this morning and Ive been sleeping all day. My only regret for the trip was that I didn’t buy one of those cool beret-type Basque hats. They were so cool. I definatly have to return when the weather gets better.
Here we go, only one week more of school and then spring break. Some friends are coming to visit during and then the parents make their Barcelona debut the week after. I’m excited. Ive only just been realizing how little time I have left overseas and its made me anti-homesick. I don’t want to go home. And honestly if I didn’t have to graduate, I wouldn’t. Back to home, back to work, back to real life… how boring. Let me be young. Let me explore. Let me play in Europe’s backyard forever. Let me be.

Gabe

“My sweet angel, Barcelona, hide me safely, give me shelter
In a dark place, under assumed name, through Catalunya
Lost and rollin’, driftin’ loosely, no occupation, Barcelona
The last angel, Barcelona”
-Barcelona, by The Rentals

buy nothing. go to prom anyways.

Bones Amics,

So, some interesting things have been happening in Spain. So interesting in fact that some of the news has leaked all the way across the great Atlantic ocean and into the media boxes of the United States.
Last monday bombs exploded across the Atocha train station in Madrid (which I visited not 3 months ago). Immediatly everyone blamed the basque terrorists ETA. They were the most obvious culprit having threatened such attacks for a long time, but there was also the possibility floating around everyone’s mind that it might be the infamous Al Qu’aida. We went through a week of frighteningly similar September 11 type feelings, not knowing who or what was to blame but knowing something had to be done. There were humongous rallies everywhere across Spain. The hot spot in Barcelona was Passeig de Gracia and Diagonal where millions assembled friday night to protest “whatever” and “whoever” happened to be on their mind that they didnt like.
Like always, there were political ramifications from every which angle. The national elections were to be held this past Sunday night. If the culprit was ETA, the PP (current party in power) would surely win the elections due to their strong anti-ETA history. However, if it turned out to be some other terrorist group like Al Al Qu’aida then the PSOE (socilaists) were expected to win because of their anti-Iraq war stance, which everyone was blaming for all of the worlds problems and which everyone was dying to get out of anyway. It took until the Sunday morning of the elections to sort out all the confusion and actually find a face to definatively blame. It turned out to be Al Qu’aida. They found a van with a tape and then another tape in a Mosque with some bomb material. The elections results that night rang the predictions true. The Zapatero and the PSOE swept the election. Spain is now a socialist country. Currency has been abolished. Child labor is legal again. There is rampant looting in the streets. And some say the end of the world is near. Ehhh… we’ll see.

I took everything pretty low key last week. I didn’t really do anything. I don’t think. Its funny how terrible my memory has been these past months. It takes some real digging to come up with anything interesting to say. Lets see, I was still recovering from my cough of death so I took it easy. Well, one night (I think wednesday night) I went out with Cindy and her friend Rebecca who was visiting from London. We went out to Chupitos on Barceloneta and then to Jamboree afterwards. That was fun. It was really the first time I had been out dancing since September. We met some guys at Chupitos who were from New Hampshire or something. Then thursday and friday I hung out with Cindy. She made me nice dinners. We watched movies. Went out to see Cold Mountain at the Yelmo Cineplex.
Side note of extreme unimportance: Lately, when we see a movie at this theatre we go to the Bocatta in front of the theatre, buy a Spinach, 4 cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes sandwhich and smuggle it in hidden in Cindy’s huge purse. Im not sure how much they even care we bring it in, but I think we’re so used to not being allowed in the States it somehow makes it wrong not to have to smuggle food in. Sometimes we’ll go to the grocery store first and get some snacks, water (.23 centavos a liter) or candy (always dirt cheap. The sprinkled berry gum drops are Cindy’s favorite, I like the peach hearts). I usually always come out with a Kinder Egg as well. I build the toy while waiting for the movie. I’m starting a collection of the toys. My favorite is a goat shaped one but the airplane is cool too. I’m a little boy. I know. Anyway, the movie wasn’t too shabby. Natalie Portman had a part. And so did that other guy who I like.
Saturday night I was invited to Cindy’s roommate Mihelle’s birthday dinner. We went out to a restaurant in the Barri Gotic called Gaucho’s. It was an Argentinian place and had really good steaks. I haven’t had a steak that good for a long long time. Cindy’s roommates are awesome. Robert plays drums in a band called The Carrots and he promised to give me a shirt. Sofie is french and I don’t even hold it against her because she is a great person too. Then there is Helga who goes to Belgium and brings back chocolate which she shares with everyone. Mihelle (who’s name Im surely butchering) rows and used to work in Lake Forrest, the town right next to mine in Orange County. How random.
And get this. The next day Cindy and I met at Starbucks to study for our midterms monday and she met some guy who is from Laguna Niguel! In Rancho Niguel! He did something for Michelin tires and was out on business testing some formula one race cars at the local track. Man, now that is random. So we studied a little bit and talked a lotta bit with the rest of the people there to “study.” By the way, Starbucks is the most ideal place to study in Barcelona. Its the only place I know with big comfortable chairs and tables that doesn’t care if you buy a drink or not. We stay there all day and order maybe one hot chocolate, getting just enough studying done.
Literatura Hispana-Americana II was my first exam. I wrote two short essays and it was over. Right after, in the same classroom, I had my Fonetics exam which turned out to be way easier than expected. Tuesday night I went out to FNAC and bought some blank cds and the new The Shins cd. On wednesday I found out I got an A- on my Lit class exam, but I still don’t know the fonetics grade. That night I went over to Cindy’s place and she made mexican food. Rice, beans, guacamole, fajitas. It was so nice to have some real mexican food again. Afterwards we watched the Real Zaragoza vs Real Madrid match on the television. The game was being played in the Olympic Montjuic stadium in Barcelona, very close to Cindy’s place. The bright lights from the game made it look like it was day outside. After the huge upset, the unbeatable Real Madrid fell to Real Zaragoza in overtime (3-2), we went outside and listened to the cheers and fireworks being shot off in the streets.
Tomorrow I go to Valencia for Las Fallas, a huge celebration I’m told is comparable to Barcelona’s Merce Festival. Im leaving early morning and then coming back the next day early morning. I can’t wait. I’m charging my camera batteries right now. And about the pictures. I promise to put up some new ones on my website soon. Promise. And sorry for all the side notes, off track statements, commas and parenthesis in this email. (Isn’t hearing about my food smuggling habits fun?). But I think they add a little bit of randomness and also a bit more insight to my time here. I hope all of you are having a nice day.

got it just don’t get it when there’s lovin’ involved.
Gabe

Bombs exploded all over Madrid today. Most people think its by fault of ETA, the Basque terrorist seperationist group. Its a humongous deal. About 200 people died while traveling to work on the morning trains. They’re treating it like September 11th over here. The University cancelled all classes. You’ll probably be hearing a little blurb about it on the news in America.

Gabe